Question:
I have a Vitus 979 which is 25 to 30 years old. I weigh 150 pounds and rural recreational ride from 30 to 100 miles on a given weekend day. I do not pound on my bike. The roads are usually tar/stone covered and occasionally bumpy. My aluminum fork happened to get damaged and bent. I presume in this condition it needs to be replaced. The bike has a 1 inch steering tube. Would a carbon fork be a good replacement? I know there are various types of carbon forks. They go from Monocoque (one piece), to two and three piece constructions. I think a three piece constructed fork would not be a good choice. What fork would be your choice and why?

Hi Karl.

Replacing the old damaged forks is a very good idea as you don’t want them to break when you are on a ride. Alloy can crack when damaged and then snap, plus with forks you can’t see if there has been any damage to the steering column which is hidden by the head tube and the head set. So replacing them is the safest thing to do and carbon is the way to go.

Monocoque is probably the best option, but its also the most expensive fork, there is no problem with a set of two piece fork with carbon bonded to alloy as these are very strong and a little less expensive. Take a look at Columbus Carve, Deda Blackforce, Easton EC90, Profile BRC and Ritchey Comp, these are all available in 1 inch, all these are top quality carbon forks, some are monocoque and the others are alloy steering column with carbon crown and fork legs.

As your bike is over 25 years old it will probably have a threaded head set, so if you want to keep your head set then you will have to look for forks with a threaded steering column.

You can change the old threaded head set for an A-head set, but you will also have to buy an A-head set stem to fit the smooth threadless forks, which will all look very nice and modern.

I had a Vitus for some time, many years ago, and it was one of the best bikes for cornering and climbing, but a little harsh on bumpy roads, the addition of carbon forks should help the comfort of your ride.

Let us know which forks you decide.

Question:
I just bought a bike off of eBay and will need a bolt for my seat. This bike is an ‘86 SCHWINN WORLD (TAIWAN) and all I need is the bolt, as the clamp is built into the frame. It is two-pieces and uses a 4-mm hex (allen) wrench on both heads. Any ideas where I could pick up one of these? I could put a high-quality bolt from the hardware store but hate to substitute on these things–like to keep original.
Thanks!!
“Ben”

Hi Ben.

Sounds like you got a fine bike there, you can get some good bargains on e-bay, but you need to be careful and check things out first. The bolt that you refer to should be easy to find as all bikes used to have this bolt to hold the seat pin in place in the frame, these days things are a little different with extended seat tubes and aero seat pins and in some cases no seat pin just a clamp system.

The bolt you are looking for is a two piece frame fitting Allen key seat pin binder bolt and there is a choice of prices and quality from steel to alloy and from Taiwan made to the top Italian Campagnolo versions, but they all do the same thing; they stop the seat pin sliding down inside the seat tube.

Check out Performance Bike who have them or try your local bike shop which should have a cheap replacement or maybe even the Campagnolo bolt.

Campag Seat Binder Bolt

Question:
I will like to buy a wireless/ strapless heart monitor wrist type. What would be a good unit?

Hi Jorge.

I have only ever used two strapless heart rate monitor and was not pleased with its accuracy when compared to a chest strap wireless HRM. The first one I had you had to press a button on the front of the watch to make a electric circuit to read the pulse, this of course was impossible while cycling, near impossible when running and dangerous when swimming with the possibility of drowning.

The second one worked from the wrist, but didn’t work when running and was difficult to see the numbers when cycling, I didn’t try when swimming.

Wrist HRM

There are many HRM’s that will work well and will not break the bank. If you don’t like the thought of wearing a strap then don’t worry as you soon get used to it and it’s the most reliable method of taking your pulse.

If you are cycling then a combined cycle computer and heart rate monitor so that you will know all you mileage and other cycling information.

You could spend around $40 on a strapless HRM or pay a little more and have all the information at your finger tips.

Cycle Computer HRM

Question:
With so many different bikes available and so much hype from various manufacturers that suggest that theirs is the best, etc., an actual choice becomes very difficult. I’m looking for a good top end bike and my choice has been narrowed to either the new Pinarello Dogma or the new Specialized Tarmac SL3. I will not be doing any racing; I’m just one of those nuts that likes to ride on a top end bike.

Hi Ted.

I would agree that both bikes are the top end in the world frames and a very difficult choice between the two. Just because you are not racing that doesn’t mean you can’t ride the best that is on offer. Appreciating the best is not something to apologise for, wanting to ride a top bike just shows you have good taste and the cash!

Our Choice (Very difficult indeed!)

Specialized SL3
The S-Works SL3 is an improvement on the SL2 with added strengthening fibres and integrating the chain stays with the bottom bracket as a monocoque making the rear end much stiffer. At the front they have used more stiffening ribs around the head tube as have the forks, so the frame is now one of the most rigid on the market. For comfort the seat stays are wide to lower lateral flex, but are thin to give some road absorbency.

The Specialized looks like a normal frame, the main tubes are nearly round, and the top tube flattens as it comes to the seat tube and has a look of a “hump” in the middle. The chain stays look big, but this is because they are flat and the pencil thin seat stays are very similar to the ones used by Cervelo.

Maybe the Specialized SL3 is a little more “conservative” in its look, but it is classy and very workmanlike and weighs in at just over 13 lbs fir the complete bike, for sure a great frame.

Specialized SL3

Pinarello Dogma
The Dogma from Pinarello looks like no other frame with its shaped tubes and forks. The chain and seat stays have a “wiggle” in the middle and the forks have two bends with a definite different look to them. The top tube also has a bit of a hump in the middle and the head tube has a shaped area which also gives the frame a different look.

The seat tube has an aero shape which means you also have to use a special aero shaped seat pin. The main tubes are large and flat giving a very aero look. The material used for the carbon Dogma is 60HM1K which means that the rigidity is 60 tons per square centimetre which makes it very rigid, but has the draw back of being brittle, so Pinarello have fitted shock absorbing elastomers to take away the chance of cracks.

Pinarello Dogma

Both bike will handle like you would expect from the best, Specialized and Pinarello have Pro riders winning on both frames, so they both have the pedigree and the feed back from the riders must make a difference to every facet of the frames.

I would say that if you want something different I would go for the Pinarello, if your choice is more towards the normal look then it has to be the Specialized.

My choice….The Pinarello, probably!

The next problem will be which equipment to fit? Let us know what you decide.

Pinarello Dogma

Question:
Just purchased a giant composite racing bike and please would some one post how to properly remove and adjust the carbon stem (raise it up) with spacers I was thinking of raising my bars some

Hi Mark.

I guess you have an A-Head stem, not the old style of stem.

First loosen the bolts that hold the stem tight to the steering column, these will be at the side or at the back of the stem. Then loosen and remove the top bolt and cap, the stem should then just lift off.

You can then put spacers bellow the stem raising it on the column, be careful not to put too many spacers underneath as there won’t be enough columns for the stem to hold onto.

Put the stem back on top of the extra spacers and replace the top cap and its retaining bolt, don’t tighten the stem bolts yet. Now by tightening or loosening the top you have to adjust the tension on the bearing in the head set. Pull the front brake on and feel if there is movement in the head set, if there is then tighten the top bolt. Then lift the front of the bike and turn the bars from one side to the other making sure that the bars and wheels turn smoothly, if not you need to loosen the top bolt.

Top Bolt

Once you have the tension correctly adjusted then tighten the bolts holding the stem onto the steering column making sure that the stem is in line with the front wheel. It can be a tricky job getting the tension just right, but with some practice you should manage to adjust the head set correctly.

The adjustment of the head set is very important; if it is too tight or too loose then it will damage the bearings. Make sure that the bolts holding the stem are also tight as you don’t want it to come loose when out on a ride. If there is not enough steering column for the stem to grip and you need to raise the stem further you can buy an extension piece that bolts into the column and allows you to raise the stem further.

We hope this answers your problem?

Stem Bolts

Question:
It seems selecting the tyre/tire size is top secret around. I enquired with many shops, and a couple of tire manufacturers. They all said 700X23C is the right tyre (one size fits all)

However, I happened to have read some literature that says otherwise (especially if speed/distance competition is/are involved)

My weight: 68kg, my road bike: 9.0kg, accessories: 3.0kg, most routes are paved roads

Any advice?

Hi again Lee.

I would agree that 700c x 23 is a fit all tire, but it is a great tire size (the 23 width) for comfort on most road surfaces, smooth and rough and for riders of different weights. The 23 width tire rolls well and has enough “give” to take away any road rumble or bums.

As you are quite light and you ride on paved roads you could try 18 or 19 mm tires, but will find that they will not give you as much of a smooth ride. Also you may find that you have more punctures, the kind we refer to as a “snake bite” puncture, this is caused by the two edges of the rim nipping the inner tube when you hit a stone or sharp edge on the road.

Always have your tires blown up to advised pressure as this will cut down the chances of punctures, your tires will last longer and the road friction will be less and you might just go faster, but the draw back is the loss of comfort, your choice, Lee.

Conti tire

Question:
Any harm if I replaced with longer cranks for more torque, and adjust the seat forward so that my knees are above the pedal spindle (directly above the spindle/about 90 degrees seat angle)?

Hi Lee,
It always good to receive your questions.

When you fit longer cranks you do need to move your saddle further forward so that your knee is above the axle of the pedal so that you have the correct downward force when pedalling. Remember that also you need to lower the saddle or you will be stretching too much, as you lower the saddle this also moves it fractionally forward, so you need lower it first so you are comfortable with a slight flex in your knee with the pedal at its lowest.

Zipp Carbon Cranks

Once you have the height set correctly then check the fore and aft of the saddle so that the point just behind the knee cap is above the centre of the pedal axle, the best way is either with a string with a weight on the end or a straight edge like a door post or a similar part of a building that is at right angles to the ground. With this method you can position yourself with your knee and pedal against the door frame and have someone check that the cranks are horizontal.

Always make sure that the door is at a right angle with a spirit level first, a spirit level is a must to have in your tool box to also make sure that your saddle is level.

To have a similar position as before you may have to check your handle bar height and stretch as you have moved you saddle, there is a few different things you need to do when changing your crank length. Remember also that your feet will now be making a bigger circle and it will feel different from before. You may find that you have difficulty spinning a small gear, but pushing a bigger gear should feel easier as you will have more leverage. If your thighs are short then your cranks need to be short as you would not have the leverage to push them round, longer thighs can push longer cranks.

Campag Record Cranks

Question:
Reviews about Fuji CCR2, I can’t get to much information I’m considering buying one, no info is available. Can you guys tell me some thing about? Fuji is not including this model for 2010.

Answer:

Hi Cesar.
It’s been a tough job trying to find out about the Fuji CCR2, but we did find some information and a few opinions from owners:

The frame is Monoque C-4 carbon with 12K weave and matching carbon forks. The equipment is mostly Shimano 105/Ultegra with Shimano RS-10 wheels matched with Conti tires and a FSA chain set, the other parts are branded Fuji. All good stuff.

All the riders who we heard from were pleased by the build quality and the performance of the bike, the Shimano Ultegra rear derailleur is a bonus. The only complaints where about some of the Fuji parts, that the seat pin was not carbon and that the saddle was not great. The bars and stem are said to be comfortable and just right. We could only find one incident of frame failure.

Overall this is a well made and very good bike for the price, but as you say Fuji has stopped production for 2010, why? Maybe it didn’t sell well or that there are a lot of other bikes around that price. If you can get one at a good price I don’t think you will be disappointed.

Question:
I feel that my body weight is too far forward making me less confident with stability. The bike was set up by a professional who fitted a long stem, spacers and a rising bars. My bars more or less obscure sight of the front hub (which I’m told is right).
It’s a large 2006 Scott Genius 40 and I’m 5′11″. The geometry of the frame is pretty strange if you get a chance to look at it. Can you give me your thoughts on this…is the bike too small for me…. should I be trying out other bikes. ? Thanks TJ

Hi TJ.

Yes, normally you can’t see the front hub when riding the bike, except, I have found with Pinarello carbon road frames, the geometry seems to move the front hub closer and you can see it when you look down so you are more over the front wheel.

I would say that you should try other bikes as this may help you to gain confidence with your Scott.

The Scott Genius 40 is a fine full suspension mountain bike, I couldn’t find a 2006 model, but the Genius 40 2009 model has everything with a mixture of Shimano, SRAM, FSA, Avid and Truvativ. Looking at the geometry of the Scott Genius it is normal for this style of bike and nothing out of the ordinary. If you are thinking that the bike is too small, or more precisely too short, then try adjusting the handle bars. You say that you have had riser bars fitted, so if you adjust the bars so that they are more forward using rise to give you more stretch with your arms.

If you find that this helps then maybe you need a longer stem or a longer framed bike. Try a friends bike if you have any that are taller than you or with a bigger bike. Your other option is to try and get some test rides of different bikes to help you decide if you are comfortable on your Scott.

You have a very good bike there; maybe you need to “tweak” your position to feel confident and comfortable.

Remember that when you are going down hill you should move your weight more to the rear of the bike for better (and safer) descending.

Question 1 from Dave:
I have just bought a road bike and want to know what the best gel saddle is when it comes to a comfy ride?

Question 2 from Jorge:
I am looking for a good comfortable bike saddle. My bike has a Velo factory- Giant OC3 with middle cavity. But it’s very uncomfortable on my butt bones.
Do you know of any other (high-end) manufacture that would compare with the E3 Form from Performance/ Nashbar Bike?

Question 3 from Benjamin:
I love to go cross country biking all the time but I’ve tried a lot if bike seats which are mostly uncomfortable in the groin area and back part. I saw this hornless seat; I’d like to know if it’s really effective as they say they are????
Answer:
Hi Dave, Jorge and Benjamin.

This is the BIG question! It’s the question we all have fairly regularly, usually we find a saddle that is just right and then the manufacturer stops making it and we have to go through the whole thing again.

Choosing a new saddle is a case of trial and error, but spending (a lot of) money on a saddle that you are not sure of is a chance we don’t want to take.

Check Selle Italia Flite GEL Flow Price

Talk to your friends and if possible borrow different saddles from them or from your local bike shop. The bike shop may have some trial saddles from the manufacturers.

The shape depends on your shape and will be very personal; also it can depend on how you ride, your riding style. If you sit back on the saddle and push then you will look for more width at the back. Then maybe you move forward on to the nose of the saddle when riding hard so you would want more gel up front.

Selle San Marco Saddle Price

Then if you have deep thighs you need less side flaps on saddle as these will chafe the side of the legs. The gap or gel in the centre of the saddle is to protect your prostrate, which if it works is a great idea and gel on the sit bone areas are also very comfortable, particularly on a long ride.

The bottom line is that you need to find a saddle that you are comfortable with and that you will get used too because it will be different from your old saddle.

Good luck to the three of you and everyone else who will be going through the same problems.